La campagna olearia in Sicilia
Annata ricca, massaru cuntentu
È il titolo di una famosa commedia di Nino Martoglio. E la campagna olearia di quest’anno, si può dire sin da adesso non un’annata ricca, ma eccellente, sia per la qualità che per la quantità di olio che si produce. Gli alberi sono stracarichi e, malgrado la siccità e lo scirocco, buona parte delle olive sono rimaste attaccate all’albero, chiaro segnale che l’oliva è “sinsera”, cioè non ancora attaccata dalla mosca olearia. Si può solo notare che, nel rapporto qualità-quantità la buona qualità spesso perde qualcosa quando c’è una grande quantità, e la resa è minore, ma è un dettaglio occasionale.
Quello di stabilire come e quanto “ietta”, l’oliva, ovvero la resa, è un calcolo che varia anche in rapporto ai paesi del circondario. Premesso che, nel rapporto peso-olio il peso delle olive è in chili, mentre quello dell’olio è in litri, e che c’è quindi una differenza che non viene calcolata, in diverse zone della Sicilia la media è fatta sulla base del “sacco di macina”, che è di 33 chili: tre sacchi corrispondono a cento chili. Se cento chili di olio rendono in media 15 litri di olio, l’oliva “ietta” a cinque, cioè cinque litri per ogni sacco da 33 chili. Oggi più sbrigativamente ci si ferma alla percentuale di resa per ogni 100 chili. La resa si aggira dal 12 al 22% e dipende da molti fattori, essenzialmente dal grado di maturazione delle olive, dal tipo di oliva, dal tipo di terreno in cui cresce l’albero, dalla potatura, da eventuali irrigazioni, concimazioni, aratura e trattamenti di disinfestazione. Sono i comuni in cui esiste un’anagrafe dell’olio, e che si preoccupano di calcolare la quantità d’olio realizzata sommando quanto molito dai vari frantoi della zona.
Un buon olio si valuta dalla maggiore o minore intensità, lata da tre elementi fase, il fruttato ovvero il profumo, l’amaro e il piccante. C’è gente che giudica sbrigativamente in modo negativo un olio che pizzica il palato o brucia un po’ la lingua, ma si tratta di inesperti che pretendono di sapere e ai quali si può vendere, con loro grande soddisfazione, un olio scarso e magari “miscatu”, cioè con aggiunta di olio di semi o di olio vecchio.
Si tenga presente che il colore è del tutto ininfluente nel valutare la qualità, perché esso cambia costantemente, (olio verde chiaro, giallo, verde scuro, marrone ecc.)sia in rapporto alla luce che alla conservazione, che alla contrada di provenienza: anche la densità non è fondamentale: ci sono oli ben sedimentati, con la morca che, dopo qualche mese si deposita sul fondo e che bisogna togliere travasando, e oli che ancora presentano residui di molitura, che alcuni preferiscono mantenere.
Olive sane, molitura accurata e conservazione sono i tre elementi che qualificano l’olio: la conservazione è affidata anch’essa a tre elementi di base, l’aria, la luce e il calore. L’aria è nemica dell’olio, ne disperde il profumo e ne modifica il sapore: è preferibile conservare l’olio in bidoni d’acciaio che abbiano un rubinetto nella parte inferiore, in modo che, al momento del trasferimento in bottiglia non si introduca aria nel contenitore, ma è anche importante preservare l’olio al buio, lontano da fonti di luce e di calore, tenuto conto che la temperatura ideale non dovrebbe scendere sotto i cinque gradi né andare oltre i 25.
Non ci inoltreremo su note tecniche legate alla presenza di polifenoli e alle varietà di alberi di olivi presenti: senza dubbio il re degli ulivi è il cerasuolo. Una nota merita anche il tipo di potatura: nel trapanese è tipica la potatura bassa, in modo da facilitare la raccolta.
Un buon olio extravergine di oliva non deve avere più dello 0,8 di acidità e la qualità dell’olio va anche valutata sulla base di questo elemento, a partire dal tasso minimo, che è dello 0,2, cioè un olio leggerissimo che non dovrebbe causare disturbi di alcun tipo, ma solo vantaggi nutritivi e degustativi. L’olio vergine ha, come quello extravergine un grado di acidità valutabile dallo 0,8 a due gradi, il resto è da rettificare, cioè da affidare a macchinari che sono in grado di far diventare appetibile, colorato e profumato anche l’olio più “fitusu”.
E allora, visto che abbiamo la fortuna di crescere in una terra in cui con l’olio ci si può fare il bagno, ci si può preparare a gustare quella che è una delle sette meraviglie della natura, la “muffuletta caura cunsata cu l’ogghiu appena nisciutu r’a macina”. (schiacciata calda condita con olio appena uscito dal frantoio), magari con un pizzico di sale e pepe.
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